OLIVIER THEYSKENS

The fashion industry is widely-renowned as one of the world's most competitive - for every designer that manages to establish a successful label, there are just as many that lose financial support and fade into obscurity. For example, French designer Olivier Theyskens set up an eponymous label in 1997 and managed to gain an A-list clientele, with megastars such as Madonna and Nicole Kidman commissioning his designs for the red carpet. Theyskens hit the peak of his career in 1999 with two critically-acclaimed collections, yet despite the designer's talent and distinctive aesthetic, he failed to secure financial support and his label collapsed. In a short space of time, Theyskens' gained a cult following that is still relevant today, and looking back at his own collections it is easy to see why.

Theyskens' designs often explored the juxtaposition between frailty and strength - his S/S 1999 collection was based mainly around a monochrome colour palette, and materials used included black leather, sheer latex and delicate organza. Whilst some looks were more traditional in their aesthetic, Theyskens' preferred to shock, sending out masked models in rubber bodysuits and exaggerated black gowns. The imagery for the collection was extremely distinctive and is said to have inspired later collections by icons such as Alexander McQueen - there are several similarities between the two designers, such as their penchant for gothic imagery and dramatic silhouettes. There is also an element of the grotesque to some of the looks - one of the most striking examples is of a model whose face is almost entirely obscured by black bird feathers attached to her black bodice, giving the impression that she is being devoured by crows.



Olivier Theyskens S/S 1999



Olivier Theyskens S/S 1999

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