Fall 2012 Highlights; John Galliano RTW

The second highlight of the Fall 2012 shows came courtesy of BIll Gaytten, creative director of John Galliano. It is no secret that the name of John Galliano has recently been associated with far more than just fashion, due to a highly controversial and highly-publicised court case which saw the designer come under fierce criticism for his anti-semitic comments. However, Galliano has undoubtedly earned his reputation as a fashion heavyweight after working as creative director for powerhouse brands such as Givenchy and Dior, and this latest collection shows that the John Galliano brand is still thriving despite the negative publicity.

In terms of the collection, Gaytten ensured that the usual historical influences were present in the garments. Heavy beading, fur-lined hems and nipped-in waists gave the collection a distinctly 1940s feel, whereas leather jodphurs provided a sly nod towards the equestrian trend that is set to become huge this Autumn.



Beaded chiffon gown; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW



Leather jodphurs; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW

The colour scheme of the collection was extremely decadent; gold, bronze and red were used often, lending an air of royal grandeur to the overall aesthetic. Gaytten also dabbled in military pieces, sending out a deconstructed khaki coat which also came in a shortened jacket form. By adding details such as a fur hemline and elbow-length leather gloves, the looks were a breath of fresh air that broke up the collection nicely and showed the designer's versatility. In fact, the coats were all extremely impressive - by showing oversized woolen jackets as well as form-fitting trenchcoats and quilted leather jackets, Gaytten ensured there was enough variation in fit and texture that there was a variety of outerwear to suit a variety of women.

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Gaytten's take on military; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW



Cocoon coat; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW

Finally, towards the end of collection Gaytten moved away from the structure and tough materials and moved towards a more feminine, ethereal aesthetic. A series of dreamy chiffon maxi-dresses were interesting both in their cut and their detailling. Sheer dresses featured intricate beading and elaborate necklines - by keeping the colour palette muted (midnight blues, blacks and dark bronze) the gowns appeared simple yet beautiful, whereas a closer look revealed an attention to detail more often associated with couture collections.



Royal blue evening gown; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW



Semi-sheer evening gown; John Galliano Fall 2012 RTW

Overall, Gaytten succeeded in producing a stunning yet varied collection whose historical references and elaborate handiwork elevated it above others. Less trend-led than many collections, the looks were both wearable and beautiful with the coats in particular working on their own as a tremendous statement piece. The nods towards 1940s silhouettes and detailling helped the collection stand apart from others whilst remaining perfect in the context of Galliano's signature aesthetic. Despite the controversy surrounding the Galliano name, Gaytten did a stellar job in ensuring this collection is able to stand on its own merit.