Ever since the debut of the iconic Aquarium dress, Greek designer Mary Katrantzou has been a major player in the league of upcoming fashion talent, and one of the most anticipated shows of this week's London Fashion Week. Known for her digital prints and strong silhouettes, everyone was anxious to see how the young designer's aesthetic would progress, and luckily the crowd wasn't disappointed. In contrast to previous collections, the colour palette was extremely muted, centred mainly around strong monochrome pieces and futuristic golds, effortlessly capturing the melancholy mood of winter. The prints were also noticeably darker, principally featuring desolate landscapes as opposed to the digital brights that the designer had previously favoured.
The collection also showed a departure from the sharply nipped-in waists and exaggerated fishbowl skirts of the past, moving towards a looser, more relaxed silhouette in some of the later looks. Shoulders were rounded and hemlines were longer, creating a more experimental silhouette and a fascinating take on proportions that distinguished Katrantzou from her contemporaries and showed that she continues to take risks. The collection serves as a reminder to all that Katrantzou is far from a one-trick pony - although the emphasis is still on digital prints and striking proportions, the designer has proven that there is still new territory to be explored.
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