ULYANA SERGEENKO FALL 2013 COUTURE

In today's media-driven society, it is easier than ever for upcoming designers to showcase their own street style to gain column inches for their own lines. Take Ulyana Sergeenko for example, a woman that was more accustomed to purchasing couture than to buying it. Her love of waspish waistlines and dramatic full-length dresses saw her featured in the best-dressed pages of many magazines and helped establish her sartorial reputation before she had even shown her first line. The collection was worth the wait and now Sergeenko is on her third showing at Couture Fashion Week and the calibre of models displaying her unique designs has raised significantly - girls of the moment Hanne Gaby Odiele and Natsya Kusakina were among the models chosen by Sergeenko to walk the runway.

The clothes themselves were as show-stopping as ever. The overall tone of the collection was more sombre than usual - as opposed to a bright colour palette, Sergeenko chose mainly sullen tones such as slate grey and midnight black, although there were flashes of crimson and bottle green on the runway (a nod to Sergeenko's Russian heritage). The fabric choices were also delightfully indulgent - from soft furs, black lace and plush velvet, there was a real sense of decadence about the collection, and one which is obviously a clear reflection of Sergeenko's own wardrobe. 

As a long-time couture buyer herself, perhaps the most exciting aspect of Sergeenko's couture line is that she seems to have established it not for any kind of business purpose, but simply because she has a passion for clothes and wished to create her own ideal wardrobe. We see many designers that stage grandiose spectacles on the runway, complete with elaborate fairytale outfits that the designers themselves would never dream of wearing. With Sergeenko, the clothes have her name stamped all over them - from the subtle nods to Russian folklore through to the trademark silhouette and dramatic aesthetic, it's clear that this is a woman that truly understands how to dress (whether it be herself or others).