SIMONE ROCHA

In the notoriously fickle fashion industry, competition for fresh faces to get noticed is stiffer than ever. However, one young designer is slowly emerging as a force to be reckoned with - despite her famous father (her father, John Rocha is head of his label 'Rochas' which is stocked in department stores worldwide), Simone Rocha is carving out her own name and her own aesthetic. Now on her seventh collection, the designer has gained recognition for her ability to play with texture, colour and print in order to create collections which lean towards a softer take on androgyny.

Rocha's A/W 2013 collection made the designer's aesthetic crystal clear. In her previous work, Simone had hinted at themes - contrast appeared to be the main theme, whether it be represented via the use of androgyny or the juxtaposition between heavy and light fabrics. This collection seemed to be the purest embodiment of that theme, in the sense that the androgyny was subtle as opposed to cliché. Young, modern mini-dresses were given a masculine twist with shiny brogues or loafers, whereas baggy trousers and tailored jackets were shown in pastel hues, affording them a feminine edge. 

Rocha also proved that she is able to work with a range of different materials - from organza and lace through to PVC and leather, the collection was a true display of hard against soft. One of the most beautiful looks of the show was a nude PVC shift dress, which was semi-sheer but featured two white flowers which covered the nipples. The contrast between the sexuality of the material and the femininity of the florals felt incredibly modern and incredibly subtle, and the overall look was edgy yet reserved enough to be wearable in everyday life. Rocha explored sexuality again by using laser-cutting to present a series of black dresses that were provocative in the sense that they exposed the wearer's silhouette completely, but upon closer inspection the pattern of the cut was actually made up of tiny black flowers - another incorporation of femininity. 

The collection came to a close with a series of classically beautiful evening gowns - in both pastel pink and midnight black, the dresses were made from an irridescent material and featured origami-like pleating on the sides of the skirts which made for an interesting silhouette. The beauty of Rocha's designs lies entirely in the details - it is the juxtaposition between textures and the playful exploration of the battle between sexuality and sensuality that lend another dimension to Rocha's collections, one that makes her infinitely more interesting than her contemporaries. By using nude and pastel tones, the clothes are structured and minimal enough to be timeless, yet quirky enough to be contemporary. With only a few collections under her belt, it will be interesting to see the designer's signature aesthetic continue to blossom.