SIMONE ROCHA S/S 2014

Simone Rocha has been making a name for herself over the past few seasons (you may recognise her from one of my earlier blogposts), but this season her clothing was more provocative than ever before, grabbing fashion headlines. She also abandoned the sugary-sweet colour palette of her previous collections, deciding only to use the varying shades of monochrome, a brave but smart move as eyes were drawn more to the textural qualities and the intricate detail of the hi-tech fabrics that were used.

As usual, the juxtaposition between youth and adulthood was there, except it wasn't as obvious as in previous collections. This time, Rocha made PVC and latex gowns that were reminiscent of an Amsterdam sex worker, but used black PVC florals to create a checkerboard effect that was both striking and intelligent. Considering the material that they were made from (more often associated with sex shops than high-fashion), the clothing was all surprisingly wearable and extremely chic - the sheer latex blouses, for example, would be a perfect layering piece, whereas the black floral PVC coat would work well as an investment winter coat - the style is classic and the material is waterproof, what's not to love?

Rocha also developed a metallic brocade - gold foil leaves were appliquéd onto shiny silver material to create a series of playful trouser suits and dresses that were incredibly cute with their Peter Pan collars - proof that the designer can stray from the more provocative materials yet still retain her edge. Finally, the show wrapped up (literally) with three nude veils that covered the entire top half of the models' bodies. Teamed with white dresses (with a sheer polka dot lining) and headpieces, the veils were the perfect end to a show full of statements.