Politics is a tricky business. Within right-wing countries such as my
own home, the United Kingdom, politicians play a difficult game, attempting to
combine conservative values with an economy driven only by growth. Ever since
David Cameron (part of the right-wing Tories) took on the role of Prime
Minister, a class hierarchy of sorts has emerged – arguably an undeniable
element of a Capitalist government and not one which has had a hugely
detrimental effect so far (aside from the fact that most of the population now
shudder with fear at the thought of £9000 tuition fees, meaning that university
education is now less of a right, more of a privilege). However, Cameron’s most
recent announcement that he was going to ‘revolutionise the Internet’ was a
step too far, and a clear example of politics sticking its proverbial nose
where it does not belong.
Kristen McMenamy, 032c |
The ‘revolution’ of which Cameron speaks will manifest itself in the form of strict online censoring, no doubt designed to appease the overly-sensitive members of the UK population that spend their Saturday nights on the phone to OFCOM, complaining about Lady Gaga getting her arse out on the X Factor. Now, with regards to the ban, it would be less irritating if Cameron was talking about cracking down on child pornography, or if the censorship was aimed specifically at youngsters, but he wasn’t and it isn’t. Instead Cameron now apparently feels he has the right to judge what we, as a nation of consenting, educated adults, should and should not be allowed to see – a rage-inducing thought, especially when we consider the effects that the ban could have on young creatives. This article is designed to highlight just one of the countless flaws in Cameron’s grandiose scheme – the notion of defining what it and what isn’t porn, especially within the realms of fashion and art. In terms of censorship, how can we define what is inappropriate and what isn’t?
Simone Rocha, S/S 2014 |
To begin, we have to understand that sex and sexuality are both fluid,
especially in today’s society. Too often we think of ‘sex’ as a bad thing,
associated only with the silicone-chested models splashed on Page 3 of every
newspaper, hands in knickers and ‘come-to-bed’ eyes fixed firmly on the camera.
Never do we think of sexuality in the sense of power – we don’t think of BDSM
as a commentary on submission, we don’t think of exposed flesh as a commentary
on vulnerability and we don’t see sex as something which is a) perfectly
natural and b) something which should be discussed. For example, Simone Rocha’s
latest collection was loosely based on a Japanese photographer, Nobuyoshi
Araki, whose portraits show women laid naked, bound and gagged. This, of
course, would be banned by Cameron’s law. If you look at the photographs
themselves they are strangely beautiful, designed to visually represent the
contrast between submission and domination. The women portrayed are clearly in
control, and the steely glint in their eyes portrays determination and
strength.
Nobuyoshi Araki |
There is also the example of one of my favourite editorials of all-time,
‘032c’ (first image of this post). Featuring unusual beauty Kristen McMenamy in a series of brutally
graphic shots, some of which are incredibly explicit (one, for example, is a
close-up of McMenamy’s vagina), the editorial was provocative in its
warts-and-all portrayal of a model in her home environment. There’s a kind of
deranged beauty to the shoot, one which breaks the conventional stereotypes of
beauty and one which is both more interesting and more beneficial than the glazed
looks of the glamour models that we’re so accustomed to seeing. The theme of
the shoot is definitely more aggressive than it is ‘sexual’ – McMenamy is
literally shoving her vagina in the viewer’s face, but the message here is one
of assertion as opposed to one of seduction. Paolo Roversi is another example
of a photographer that specialises in nudity – one of his most iconic portraits
features Guinevere van Seenus, completely naked, staring pointedly into the
camera. Roversi’s ‘Nudes’ series is just one of the great things that could get
lost in these Internet filters despite the fact that the photo is not designed
to offend, simply to create a beautiful picture.
Guinevere van Seenus, by Paolo Roversi |
Finally, one of the most recent examples of nudity in fashion came courtesy of androgynous model Andrej Pejic, who controversially posed nude for Vogue Brazil. Pejic’s presence in the fashion industry in itself is extremely important – by walking both menswear and womenswear catwalks, he is slowly breaking the boundaries of gender and exposing a wide demographic to the sense that ‘transgender’ isn’t something to be feared. The UK population need to be exposed to these kinds of people – a staunchly nationalist country in itself, exposure to this kind of art would be beneficial in terms of bringing people out of their comfort zones and forcing them to entertain the notion of sex and sexuality as something more layered than mere titillation.
Andrej Pejic by Mario Testino, for Vogue Brazil |
In summary, it is genuinely disappointing to see government money being
pumped into something as trivial as censorship which seems designed to appease
a Conservative public. The focus on academia can occasionally mean that
creativity can be trampled, and these new regulations will only make it even
more difficult for young artists and designers to get their work approved and
shown to the world (which is one of the main functions of the Internet).
Cameron may to try dress the law up as an attempt to tackle child porn, but all
discussion around the bill has focused more on needless censorship than it has
on any kind of serious issue. Sex and sexuality are tools of expression, both
in fashion and in art. Nudity, erotica and countless other ‘controversial’
subjects can actually be incredibly beautiful, powerful and provocative when
done right, therefore it is completely ridiculous to even entertain the idea of
a ban, especially when the plan is so badly thought out. Cameron’s plea that ‘soft
porn’ be allowed to slip through the net is what is truly the most harmful –
the 032c editorial may never see the light of day again, yet men are still
allowed to leer over Page 3 models as long as their vaginas are covered. This
immature concept that ‘nudity = porn’ is a clear indication that actually, more
explicit photographs are something that need to be seen so that people can
understand that an erect dick or a woman with her legs open are not always
there to offend. It’s also an example of the infuriating attitude of the
country in general, one which sees people actively seeking things to complain
about instead of looking at things objectively, and from an artistic
standpoint. Finally, the ban represents judgement – judgement on people that
watch porn, judgement on people that participate in porn and judgement of a
sexually-active lifestyle. Perhaps Cameron should focus less on ‘the porn
debate’ and instead focus on the fact that politicians themselves are hardly
perfect – from expenses scandals, bigoted comments and more examples of hidden ‘mistresses’
than I can count on both hands. There is a well-known saying that feels
painfully appropriate here – ‘May he who is without sin cast the first stone’.
Kate Moss, by Juergen Teller |
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