Ever since the retirement of Margiela himself, all eyes have been pointed towards the elusive designers of the Maison - we are yet to fully see how the gang will retain the signatures elements of Margiela's designs yet subtly evolve the aesthetic and push the brand further into the future. After the debut of the house's first couture Artisanal range, there were huge expectations for this ready-to-wear collection, and the one thing that remains clear is that the brand are seeking to inject more colour into the mix.
The collection provided several references to the legendary punk culture of the 1980s - the protest dresses towards the end of the show featured block-printed propaganda, whereas the androgynous tailoring and pinstripe looks were reminiscent of Westwood in her heyday. Small details such as built-in ties and oversized, spray-painted cuffs displayed an almost DIY aesthetic, whereas other looks were incredibly polished with a keen eye for tailoring. Perhaps the collection's strongest point was its versatility - fabrics ranged from sheer latex and high-sheen leather to chiffon and even a top made from dyed string. Far from displaying a lack of cohesiveness, the variety of material and attention to detail injected a youthful vibrance into the collection that hasn't been seen from Margiela in a while. Although the house has moved away from the sleek aesthetic it has favoured in the past few seasons, it's exciting to see anarchic spirit once again being injected into the world of high fashion.