Saturday, 21 September 2013


There is a common misconception that nudity in fashion is a byproduct of the "sexualisation" of the industry - designers such as J.W. Anderson are working to dispel this myth. Despite the amount of flesh on show at his S/S 2014 collection, the aim of the clothing was never to be 'sexy'; instead the skin was part of a new lighter aesthetic for the Irish designer. Having been inspired by the British heatwave, Anderson's mission seems to have been to move his usually androgynous aesthetic into more feminine territory, and with this collection he has succeeded. Although the shoes were clunky and masculine, they never distracted from what was happening elsewhere in the outfit - the layers of chiffon and draped organza were beautiful, and when juxtaposed with bare flesh they were striking yet delicate, and perfect for the season.

Anderson also experimented with tougher materials such as leather, and one particular material had been designed almost to replicate the look of corrugated iron, manipulated into one of Anderson's signature sculptural dresses. The reminder of this show was that the designer does still like to push boundaries - whilst the bulk of the collection isn't wearable in a traditional sense, pieces such as the floral skirts and the floor-length semi-sheer dresses could easily be teamed with high-street pieces to create a more accessible look. The collection ended with a series of dresses which mimicked traditional Japanese origami, creating a beautiful yet unconventional take on a summer evening dress. Although Anderson does still like to push buttons, his new, more romantic aesthetic is surely set to open his designs to a wider audience.

No comments:

Post a Comment