Monday, 30 September 2013

KENZO S/S 2014

After a few days of relaxation (and cheap wine), I finally had the chance today to get back into the swing of things and take a look through the Paris Fashion Week shows and there was one collection that really stood out - Kenzo. Lim and Leon, the creative directors of the brand, intended to focus on the problem of over-fishing, an epidemic currently sweeping oceans worldwide and causing species such as cod and tuna to die out at a rapid rate. The pair incorporated this message into the clothing via a crisp ocean colour palette and a series of gorgeous prints including scribbled wave patterns and tiny fish motifs as well as more literally in one look, a sculpted neoprene T-shirt emblazoned with the slogan "NO FISH.. NO NOTHING".

The graphic aquatic colour palette of the collection was a refreshing change from the monochrome on offer elsewhere, and when combined with cartoon details (hand-drawn motifs, midi skirts with wavy hemlines), the look was fresh, playful and incredibly modern. The accessories were equally kooky - bright-blue sunglasses shaped like swimming goggles and adorable bucket hats were on show, as were spiral chokers and braided sandals. The fabrics in the collection were more experimental this time round too, with vinyl and chiffon mixed in amongst neoprene and luxe leather, shinier than ever.
However, despite the show's colourful aesthetic, there were a few nods back towards the initial starting point of the collection, the political message. For instance, the cobalt blues of the first few looks soon transitioned into blood reds, a reminder of the increasingly real danger of over-fishing. In a press statement, the designers stated that they were asking the question "How can we live in harmony with the ocean?", a theme which continued into the show's official afterparty, held at "L'Aquarium de Paris". As the champagne flowed and fashion editors toasted the new collection, there was definitive proof that fashion still has a heart when it comes to social messages - fashion does do politics, they just make it look effortlessly chic.

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