Wednesday, 11 September 2013

PROENZA SCHOULER S/S 2014

If there has been one collection so far that has managed to marry sartorial past and present, it is undoubtedly Proenza Schouler. By teaming yellow suede jackets (think Phoebe in Friends circa 1999) with shiny metal fastenings and faded white seams, the designers managed to reference and re-imagine an iconic 90s aesthetic in a way that we haven't yet seen. These same metal fastenings were seen on a range of almost sci-fi full-length coats and the occasional cropped blazer (complete with contrasting suede lapel), a hint at the metallics which would come later on in the collection.

The collection was a new, grown-up direction for a label that have struggled to make huge impact on the high-fashion industry in recent years. There were references to other designers to be seen - the oversized proportions and monochrome prints, for example, were reminiscent of Alexander Wang's d├ębut Balenciaga collection, whereas the painted suede and leather echoed the painted 'Protest' suits of Maison Martin Margiela's most recent ready-to-wear. This is perhaps why the most important part of the show came with a series of two-tone metallic dresses; shown in black, gold and silver, the working on the material gave the illusion of iridescent chain-mail, and the resulting semi-sheer effect was daring, provocative and, most importantly, different.



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