Tuesday 1 October 2013

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL S/S 2014

The most exciting fashion shows to see are those created by true legends of the fashion industry - the ones that have already established their name, their aesthetic and their financial security, liberating them to truly create without limits. Dame Vivienne Westwood is one of the aforementioned legends; after making history with her punk movement in the 70s and 80s and cementing her controversial aesthetic, she now shows two shows per season (see the article on her Red Label show here) full of historical reference, bold colour and whimsy. However, despite Westwood often citing in interviews that she never uses the internet or watches television, the scattered nature of this collection (adorable kittens printed on sweatshirts, for example) made it perfect for today's kawaii-obsessed culture.

Westwood's unusual silhouettes were as omnipresent as ever throughout the collection, from her wide-leg drop-crotch shorts through to her boxy peak-shouldered jackets, exaggerated proportions and super-high heels (shown this season in red leopard-print) have become her trademark. Prints are another thing that she does so well, and this season she dabbled with a range of florals ranging from tropical painterly florals through to smudged inky-black roses. Slogan totes were a reminder of Viv's political leanings, but this presentation seemed to be more a celebration of the designer's eclectic tastes than a full-blown political statement (unlike her Red Label collection).
The full-length gowns were stunning too, often realised in light tulle with tighly-corseted bustiers or with exaggerated full skirts, creating a sense of drama reminiscent of Westwood's historic 'Anglomania' collection. The collection, overall, felt like an amalgamation of everything that Westwood does so well - incorporating various eras in history, various countries and various cultures and injecting her trademark burst of eccentricity to create clothing that is intelligent, desirable and (most importantly), a whole lot of fun to wear.



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