Monday, 16 June 2014


While the rest of the world has been frantically live-tweeting the World Cup, my own Twitter feed has been flooded with hastily-snapped Instagram photos from this week's menswear main event: Jeremy Scott's debut Moschino collection. His Warholian AW14 womenswear collection brought Ronald McDonald to the runway through a series of looks that caused a (Mc)flurry of excitement online. This excitement was fuelled by the high-profile guests invited - Katy Perry famously delayed the show by turning up late and being subsequently booed by the front row. For his menswear show, it is Lindsay Lohan that captures the media attention - although the majority of the emphasis is on the collection, there are more than a few crafty candids of Oprah's darling looking chic in the front row. In addition to the utilisation of celebrity,  Scott also revolutionised the way that we consume fashion - frequently interpreted as a commentary on today's recklessly impatient culture, the designer made the entire collection instantly available online. In a savvy attempt to quench our relentless thirst for fast fashion, he launched the now-iconic Moschino phone case, a replica of McDonalds fries emblazoned with the Moschino logo. Priced at only £40, it was a slice of high-fashion that was accessible to all; within days, the case was the accessory du jour and THE must-have item to be featured in your Instagram mirror selfie. One thing was clear - Scott understood our culture, he understood our needs and he knew how to meet them whilst sparking the discussion of our new habits. 

For this, his Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection, Scott decided to place the opening looks in the context of his previous works. The first few outfits saw an explosion of colour; tight trousers and suit jackets emblazoned with the saccharine hues of Fruit Loops and Lucky Charms. Teamed with trainers, the looks were a reminder of Scott's youth-oriented outlook on fashion and a nod to the Americana references that cemented the success of his previous collection. As the collection progressed, emphasis moved towards the rave culture of the '90s as the classic 'acid' smiley face began to appear both on long, swinging medallions and patent yellow loafers.

The rave faces weren't the only nods to the 1990s - a deliberate reference to the Italian house's initial heyday. Two decades ago the Moschino logo was a wardrobe staple, a fact that Scott alludes to with his logo-banded mesh crop tops and oversized 'Moschino' sweatshirts. String vests were reinvented in the form of slouchy jumpsuits worn with just trunks underneath, whereas Lily McMenamy modelled a mesh mini-skirt from the womenswear pre-collection. Ghetto gold dominated this part of the show's aesthetic - when teamed with baggy denim decorated with splashes of bleach, it captured the essence of the '90s hip-hop look that TLC did so well. 

For a menswear collection, it's vaguely surprising that so many of the show's highlights were modelled by women. From the moment Lindsey Wixsen sashayed onto the runway in an oversized Coca Cola tee with dreadlocks piled high, it became clear that the show was as much a preview of his womenswear as it was about the men. From branded beach towels slung over shoulders to Stars 'n' Stripes swimsuits, the women commanded just as much attention - if not more so - than the men. A show highlight came when Yumi Lambert walked in the soon-to-be iconic 'Fauxschino' 'burka', proving that Scott knows how to draw attention when he wants to. The show ended with a triumphant victory walk from Scott, a man who is fast becoming part of the celebrity culture he celebrates with his clothing. Considering this is his first Moschino MAN collection, the fact that he already has the support of Lindsay Lohan is a good indication for the stardom that is soon to come. 

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