THE MYTH OF THE ANDROGYNOUS MALE

In 2013’s Full of Fire, Karen Dreijer Andersen sang “let’s talk about gender baby, let’s talk about you and me”. It seemed that the fashion world listened to her plea; two years of discussion on gender binaries and gendered clothing ensued. The concept of a woman in “menswear” is not a new one in fashion. Chanel made it acceptable for women to wear the trousers way back in the 1930s, and YSL later coined Le Smoking in 1966, a figure enhancing take on the men’s tuxedo which snowballed in popularity and spawned countless imitations. Recent years have also seen designers attempt to repurpose the male wardrobe for women – it started with the boyfriend jean, which was later teamed with the boyfriend blazer and finally the boyfriend shirt. Essentially, the concept of a gender-bending wardrobe is not one which is particularly new or radical; if you’re a woman, that is.

J.W Anderson for Loewe

LC:M A/W 2015 HIGHLIGHTS

This weekend saw London's biannual menswear extravaganza take place, shining the spotlight on both upcoming talent & established designers in order to prove that men can be as sartorially innovative as our female counterparts. Moving away from the monochrome palettes of previous years, this season was one of the most colourful in recent memory; Moschino did patchwork, Agi & Sam did Lego and Sibling featured enough pink to give Barbie a headache. From rose-dyed buzzcuts to hot pink latex, the duo brought the fun back into fashion and, subsequently, created one of the highlights of the season. Elsewhere, brands such as Ada & Nik reworked silhouettes and played with textile innovation, whereas the chic layering at Casely-Hayford struck a new balance between smart & casual. Here, we see the four highlights of LC:M; a group of innovators trying to re-introduce fun to fashion. 

CASELY-HAYFORD

In terms of wearability and desirability, this collection was a clear highlight for a number of reasons. The first reason was the sheer number of garments on the runway; with the majority of looks featuring at least three separates, there truly was something for everyone. The second was that this collection perfectly epitomised the laid-back cool that emerged as this season's dominant aesthetic. Trousers were looser than before, often with higher waistlines, wide legs and cropped hems. Cardigans became slouchy, oversized coats and the occasional day-glo racing stripe added a touch of interest to a largely neutral colour palette. This collection may not have been the most shocking or the most progressive but, in terms of nailing a new aesthetic that has the potential to appeal to a wide audience of men, Casely-Hayford is hard to beat.

CARPE NOCTEM

One of the most fundamental requirements to building a successful business is branding. It is often said that an image can only become iconic if it is repeated often enough (occasionally with subtle variations) that it burns into your retinas and lingers long after the curtains close. At this point, the image becomes associated with the brand - think Madonna and her infamous JPG cone bra, or Grace Jones and her iconic flat-top. With this collection, it's clear that Ada & Nik are creating with the intent to cement their signature aesthetic; as for their iconic intentions, the 'What Would James Dean Do?' tees are proof enough that they had at least one icon in mind when crafting this collection.

THE DARK WOLF

In an industry already saturated with designers new and old, nothing is more important than a distinctive aesthetic. Nobody, perhaps, understands this better than London design duo Ada + Nik, whose Autumn/Winter 2014 collection ‘The Dark Wolf’ premiered just two weeks ago at London Collections: Men. After both establishing themselves as prominent figures in the fashion industry (Ada has her own womenswear and couture collections, Nik has modelled for Jean Paul Gaultier as well as writing for a host of publications), the pair decided to combine their individual talents to create their own line of menswear. Combining Ada’s design background with Nik’s strong aesthetic has resulted in runaway success for the new duo, so I was understandably excited to be granted access to their Paris showroom today to delve deeper into the collection and its inspirations.

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

It used to be the case that, when I heard the word 'menswear', my mind would jump straight to outdated clichés of a well-groomed thirty-something, sporting nothing but a James Dean haircut and a well-tailored suit. Luckily, menswear has changed recently and, although there will always be space for a well-tailored suit, young designers are using their imagination and skills to push the boundaries and redefine the wardrobe of the modern male. This experimentality and will to play with the fashion formula is never more evident than in London, the capital of eccentricity and individuality. More specifically, it was evident in the recent LCM shows which collectively unearthed a feast of sartorial delights for men worldwide who are becoming bored by tradition. In this post, I have picked my five personal favourites from the host of talent on show - some of them are on the list due to a cohesive aesthetic and stand-out pieces, whereas others are on the list for subverting tradition and creating enough controversy to fuel debate and keep the ball moving forward.