Show; Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Of all the Autumn/Winter 2012 shows, one of which stood out the most was Balmain's stunning collection. The French fashion house has long since been renowned for its attention to detail, its most being famous item being the stunning trophy jacket. Luckily, the collection (the second collection by new creative director Olive Rousteing) lives up to the brand's history of gorgeous fashion. Featuring figure-hugging tube dresses, oversized suit jackets and, of course, stunningly embellished trophy jackets, the new collection saw a slight departure from the rock-n-roll aesthetic of previous collections and explored a more regal vision. As always, studs and power shoulders were a key feature to the collection, but pieces such as the quilted velvet trousers and tapestry jackets explored a realm of femininity that has seldom been seen in the previous collections.

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

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The beauty of  Rousteing's collection lays in his ability to take something traditionally beautiful and add a modern twist on it to create something previously unseen. While the dresses are figure-hugging and extremely flattering, they are kept from being restrictive by using soft jersey fabric, and the use of kick-hems, meaning that the garments retain their elegance without compromising comfort.

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Another talent of Rousteing's is his capability to marry femininity with masculine, androgynous detailing. The oversized suit jacket is one of the best examples of this - with wide lapels, tough embellishment it has some of the fierce elements that Balmain is renowned for, but the sumptious velvet and skin-tight trousers that accompanied the jacket on the runway are pinnacles of femininity. Even the oversized garments never drown the body; instead they drape elegantly, framing the body and exposing the collarbone (the lack of top underneath the jacket showed a seductive side to the collection, counteracting the intimidatingly sharp shoulders and heavy embellishment).

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Overall, it is indisputable that Rousteing has succeeded in the difficult task of taking over the helm of a brand with a rich history, and updating its aesthetic. Whilst all of the quinessentially Balmain aspects of the collection remain (sharp shoulders, rock and roll attitude, heavy embellishment), Rousteing has taken the brand in a fresh new direction, introducing luxury and femininity to a brand which is renowned for its intimidating silhouettes and fierce androgyny. It is a direction which works for the French house, and it will certainly be interesting to see to what extent Rousteing continues to stamp his presence on future collections.