The selection of Rinko Kikuchi (star of Haruki Murakami adaptation, Norwegian Wood) is a clear indication that the new creative team behind Kenzo are trying to move away from the traditional image of the brand and aim to appeal to a younger audience. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection presents a tremendously broad spectrum of garments; some pieces would work perfectly as workwear, whereas other pieces have exaggerated silhouettes and bold colour palettes, making them perfect for young trend-setters. The collection also stays true to the brand's heritage and features the trademark combination of both Eastern and Western influences; for example, the traditional Japanese weave hatsare a nod to the brand's founder, Kenzo Takada.
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| Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012 |
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| Rinko Kikuchi in Kenzo S/S 2012 (i-D magazine) |
One of the main themes behind the collection was the frequent use of fishnet. Fishnet leotards were shown in white, as well as in bolder colours. The inspiration of the fishnet pattern was also evident in the printed trousers and shirts - the flared red trousers in particular, as well as the weaved hats were standout pieces of the collection. The edgy aesthetic of fishnet was present throughout, and chiffon shirts in a beautiful muted green nodded towards the more sensual elements of the material. The collision of masculinity and femininity was also an element of the collection - speaking to i-D magazine, Rinko described the collection as "tomboyish but still really feminine".
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| Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012 |
Elsewhere, asymmetric hemlines and flattering popper-detail coats helped to define the new, edgier direction of the brand. Sporty jackets, sheer ruffled tube skirts; the scope of the garments was incredible, and arguably wider than any of the brand's previous collections. The decision to hold the show in the atrium of a Paris University was another nod towards the collection's younger target audience, while the ultra-modern runway was perfectly complimented by the history of the building. Built on contrast and the infusion of two hugely different cultures, the new team behind Kenzo have managed to appeal to a younger audience without straying from the history of an iconic brand.
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| Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012
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