LONDON FASHION WEEK - A/W '13 HIGHLIGHTS

London Fashion Week is renowned for its experimental nature, focusing the spotlight on young designers that are making their name by taking risks and being playful. A few well-known London designers are slowly building a strong reputation (Giles Deacon and Henry Holland, for example), but it's arguable that the true star of this season was Christopher Kane - showing his first collection since French luxury brand PPR acquired his eponymous label, all eyes were on the young designer and he did not disappoint. 

DAVID KOMA
It is often argued that there is no way to be original in fashion nowadays - Georgian designer David Koma, however, is looking to break the mould by using cold, industrial materials and sculptural silhouettes to create a look that is aimed directly at the future. The designer recently stated that this collection was influenced by a collection of Vinyl LPs that he had, and the reference is extremely literal - the first look was an architectural take on a skirt-suit, the curved neckline based literally on the shape and texture of an LP. The fabric reappeared frequently in the collection, first to accent chic leather jackets and later to contrast the femininity of soft, semi-sheer mini-dresses, leading to a collection that towed the line between severity and serenity whilst remaining consistently chic. 

MARY KATRANTZOU
The next highlight came courtesy of fiercely talented Greek designer Mary Katrantzou. Quickly building a reputation in the industry for her stunning screen-prints and hyperbolic silhouettes, the designer's latest offering saw her move towards a more relaxed silhouette alongside a more muted colour palette. The result was a remarkably subdued collection that managed to be both conceptual and highly wearable - with the exception of a few particularly exaggerated pieces, the cosmic imagery worked beautifully with loose, oversized jumpers and narrow skirts. Other looks favoured proportions that almost resembled lifesize origami, with sharp points engineered in metallic gold that lent an air of drama to the overall aesthetic of the show. Katrantzou also showed progression with a series of midi-length leather dresses that had been embossed with industrial landscapes - proof that the designer's mastery of printing technology is advancing with each collection that passes. 

MARY KATRANTZOU A/W 2013

Ever since the debut of the iconic Aquarium dress, Greek designer Mary Katrantzou has been a major player in the league of upcoming fashion talent, and one of the most anticipated shows of this week's London Fashion Week. Known for her digital prints and strong silhouettes, everyone was anxious to see how the young designer's aesthetic would progress, and luckily the crowd wasn't disappointed. In contrast to previous collections, the colour palette was extremely muted, centred mainly around strong monochrome pieces and futuristic golds, effortlessly capturing the melancholy mood of winter. The prints were also noticeably darker, principally featuring desolate landscapes as opposed to the digital brights that the designer had previously favoured. 

The collection also showed a departure from the sharply nipped-in waists and exaggerated fishbowl skirts of the past, moving towards a looser, more relaxed silhouette in some of the later looks. Shoulders were rounded and hemlines were longer, creating a more experimental silhouette and a fascinating take on proportions that distinguished Katrantzou from her contemporaries and showed that she continues to take risks. The collection serves as a reminder to all that Katrantzou is far from a one-trick pony - although the emphasis is still on digital prints and striking proportions, the designer has proven that there is still new territory to be explored. 

Trend; Under The Sea

It is easy to pinpoint the exact moment that the underwater trend began to pick up momentum. Way back in 2010, when the late Alexander McQueen showcased his phenomenal Atlantis collection, the desire of every fashionista to rub gills with mermaids came one step closer to becoming a reality. The prints took technology to a new level, and the infamous "Armadillo" shoes encased the model's dainty feet in shoes that walked the line between beautiful and grotesque. By looking closer at the prints, we encounter a revelation - they are based on monsters of all kinds,with reptiles and alligator prints being one of the themes that recurred most often. McQueen created the dresses as a kind of premonition - a wordy press statement revealed that he designed the collection as a prediction of an apolocalyptic future, that the melting of the ice caps meant that we would soon be living in an underwater world.

The infamous "Armadillo" shoes - Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

After the death of McQueen in 2010, brand new creative director of the brand Sarah Burton used the Spring/Summer 2012 collection as an opportunity to pay homage to one of the designer's most extraordinary collections. Serving as a natural evolution to the "Atlantis" collection and a nod to Mcqueen's history, the "Under The Sea" collection made an enormous splash when it debuted at Paris Fashion Week, reducing many an editor to tears. Burton's vision was much lighter than that of McQueen's, her collection celebrating femininity and fantasy with little hint of darkness. Highlights of the show included floor-length dresses made of tiny shells, delicate ruffles fashioned to resemble coral reef and clusters of shells designed to mask the faces of models. Burton succeeded in creating both a masterpiece in design and a suitable tribute to her predecessor, and while she was not the only designer whose collection was based on the ocean, her vision was arguably the strongest and her garments the most intricate.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2012

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