VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL S/S 2014

The most exciting fashion shows to see are those created by true legends of the fashion industry - the ones that have already established their name, their aesthetic and their financial security, liberating them to truly create without limits. Dame Vivienne Westwood is one of the aforementioned legends; after making history with her punk movement in the 70s and 80s and cementing her controversial aesthetic, she now shows two shows per season (see the article on her Red Label show here) full of historical reference, bold colour and whimsy. However, despite Westwood often citing in interviews that she never uses the internet or watches television, the scattered nature of this collection (adorable kittens printed on sweatshirts, for example) made it perfect for today's kawaii-obsessed culture.

SAINT LAURENT S/S 2014

As new creative director of YSL, Hedi Slimane has been criticised more heavily than most of his predecessors in recent seasons. First of all came the controversial move of re-branding the fashion house as 'Saint Laurent Paris', a move which many felt was a step away from the house's iconic heritage. Then there was the collection itself - clearly aimed at a young market, Slimane tried to reinvent grunge and (in my own personal opinion), missed the mark somewhat. Of course the clothing is meant to be wearable but a few looks strayed into high-street territory as opposed to looking as if they justified their (comparatively) hefty price-tags. So this season, the pressure was on for Slimane to deliver, and he has delivered a collection that is generally stronger than its predecessor.

BALMAIN S/S 2014

The 'Balmain' brand conjured up a distinct aesthetic - heavy embellishment and micro hemlines. With his last collection, creative director Olivier Rousteing turned up the aesthetic, delivering a series of ultra-short skirts teamed with jewelled jumpers with squared shoulders and waist-cinching belts, a look which left many on the fence due to the clothing's overall lack of wearability. So, this season, Rousteing has done a U-turn of sorts, choosing to relax his sharp silhouettes and introduce a touch of femininity, and has actually succeeded in producing one of the most interesting collections of Paris Fashion Week so far. 

COMME DES GARCONS S/S 2014

As profits become more and more important and the fashion world becomes more and more dependent on huge financial backers, it is a true relief to see that Rei Kawakubo has maintained her distinctly 'fuck you' attitude to fashion design. Never one to adhere to the formulas of wearability or the form of the female silhouette, this season Kawakubo recognised her own status as fashion icon and pored over her own archive with an experimental eye, taking her signature codes and fusing them together to create amalgamations of some of her greatest work.