DAVID KOMA
It is often argued that there is no way to be original in fashion nowadays - Georgian designer David Koma, however, is looking to break the mould by using cold, industrial materials and sculptural silhouettes to create a look that is aimed directly at the future. The designer recently stated that this collection was influenced by a collection of Vinyl LPs that he had, and the reference is extremely literal - the first look was an architectural take on a skirt-suit, the curved neckline based literally on the shape and texture of an LP. The fabric reappeared frequently in the collection, first to accent chic leather jackets and later to contrast the femininity of soft, semi-sheer mini-dresses, leading to a collection that towed the line between severity and serenity whilst remaining consistently chic.
MARY KATRANTZOU
The next highlight came courtesy of fiercely talented Greek designer Mary Katrantzou. Quickly building a reputation in the industry for her stunning screen-prints and hyperbolic silhouettes, the designer's latest offering saw her move towards a more relaxed silhouette alongside a more muted colour palette. The result was a remarkably subdued collection that managed to be both conceptual and highly wearable - with the exception of a few particularly exaggerated pieces, the cosmic imagery worked beautifully with loose, oversized jumpers and narrow skirts. Other looks favoured proportions that almost resembled lifesize origami, with sharp points engineered in metallic gold that lent an air of drama to the overall aesthetic of the show. Katrantzou also showed progression with a series of midi-length leather dresses that had been embossed with industrial landscapes - proof that the designer's mastery of printing technology is advancing with each collection that passes.
