MILAN A/W 2013 HIGHLIGHTS

It is hard to think of Italy without thinking of tradition, religion and (of course) extravagance, and Milan Fashion Week delivered in providing all three. Legendary Italian designers (think Gucci AND Ferragamo) presented collections that were chic, opulent and heavily inspired by the culture of the country. More upmarket than New York, less experimental than London and more classic than Paris, Italy is known for its fondness of excess, and the collections demonstrated this perfectly. I believe that the collections were extremely divisive - for example, some houses occasionally took excess too far by relentlessly clashing prints (Roberto Cavalli) whereas others used materials such as PVC in an unsuccessful attempt to create an experimental look (Versace). The true highlights came either when a brand stuck to a classic colour palette but experimented with cut and fabric (Prada) or followed a signature aesthetic but pushed it further than ever before to establish a strong brand identity (Dolce & Gabbana). So here are my highlights of Milan Fashion Week, a true testament to overstated glamour, relentless decadence and exquisite craftmanship. 

FENDI
The one fabric that is undoubtedly having its moment this season is fur - so far this season several designers have turned to fur to add a touch of luxury to their collections, but Fendi made the brave decision to dedicate almost an entire show to the versatile fabric. Whether it was shaggy mohair dyed canary yellow, or a more traditional mink fur streaked with pink and purple, the collection incorporated both tradition and innovation. Although there were some chic, tailored looks, it was the more outlandish looks that truly provided the highlights of the show. For example, a ruffled black fur coat was decorated with racing stripes of hot pink, putting a playful twist on an otherwise traditional look. The hair and accessories added to this youthful spirit - models walked the runway with grey fox-fur mohawks, whereas wacky white sunglasses (oddly reminiscent of Willy Wonka) look set to become the must-have accessory of this season. Showing that the worlds of luxury and whimsy can co-exist, the collection was without doubt one of the most interesting of the season.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Towards the more refined end of the fashion spectrum was Tomas Maier's A/W collection for luxury Italian house Bottega Veneta. Choosing to stick to classic designs and add interest via sculptural silhouettes and left-field colour choices (Maier even succeeded in making mustard look sexy - not an easy task!), the collection stood out for its approach on turning old-fashioned clichés on their head. For example, wool was the predominant fabric choice of the collection, yet the fabric looked light and airy as opposed to stiff and restrictive. Cocoon coats were tightly belted to give an air of elegance and a feminine silhouette, whereas plunging necklines were used elsewhere in the collection as a nod to a more seductive aesthetic. There were also references to the Art Deco trend - a series of cream dresses were decorated so painstakingly with coloured embroidery that it gave the illusion of a painted work of art, whereas sheer detailling and intricate beading presented a modern take on the 1920s flapper dress. Overall, the collection a new take on the notion of femininity - by being sexy without being overtly obvious, Maier showed that high fashion doesn't always have to be about shock value. 

LONDON FASHION WEEK - A/W '13 HIGHLIGHTS

London Fashion Week is renowned for its experimental nature, focusing the spotlight on young designers that are making their name by taking risks and being playful. A few well-known London designers are slowly building a strong reputation (Giles Deacon and Henry Holland, for example), but it's arguable that the true star of this season was Christopher Kane - showing his first collection since French luxury brand PPR acquired his eponymous label, all eyes were on the young designer and he did not disappoint. 

DAVID KOMA
It is often argued that there is no way to be original in fashion nowadays - Georgian designer David Koma, however, is looking to break the mould by using cold, industrial materials and sculptural silhouettes to create a look that is aimed directly at the future. The designer recently stated that this collection was influenced by a collection of Vinyl LPs that he had, and the reference is extremely literal - the first look was an architectural take on a skirt-suit, the curved neckline based literally on the shape and texture of an LP. The fabric reappeared frequently in the collection, first to accent chic leather jackets and later to contrast the femininity of soft, semi-sheer mini-dresses, leading to a collection that towed the line between severity and serenity whilst remaining consistently chic. 

MARY KATRANTZOU
The next highlight came courtesy of fiercely talented Greek designer Mary Katrantzou. Quickly building a reputation in the industry for her stunning screen-prints and hyperbolic silhouettes, the designer's latest offering saw her move towards a more relaxed silhouette alongside a more muted colour palette. The result was a remarkably subdued collection that managed to be both conceptual and highly wearable - with the exception of a few particularly exaggerated pieces, the cosmic imagery worked beautifully with loose, oversized jumpers and narrow skirts. Other looks favoured proportions that almost resembled lifesize origami, with sharp points engineered in metallic gold that lent an air of drama to the overall aesthetic of the show. Katrantzou also showed progression with a series of midi-length leather dresses that had been embossed with industrial landscapes - proof that the designer's mastery of printing technology is advancing with each collection that passes. 

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK - A/W '13 HIGHLIGHTS

The designers of New York Fashion Week tend to lean towards a more cosmopolitan aesthetic, and this season iconic designers such as Phillip Lim, Vera Wang, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera and Jason Wu all showed beautiful collections that fit the brief perfectly. Although they weren't the most innovative - fur and leather featured heavily and colour palettes were generally subdued, key progression was made via interesting fabric choice and a fresh twist on classic silhouettes.

VERA WANG

Best-known for designing bridal couture, Wang showed that she is no one-trick-pony with a collection that focussed on jewel tones and sculptural, three-dimensional silhouettes. Embellishment was everywhere, lending an air of decadence to relaxed, oversized silhouettes, whereas a series of beautiful pieces subtly referenced the oriental trend that is set to be huge this year. The best looks of the collection came when Wang turned her attention to statement trousers - the cut was loose with a slightly-tapered ankle, whereas prints ranged from digitally-engineered brocade to one particularly magnificent pair that were completely decorated with dazzling silver jewels. When teamed with loose-fitting tops and fur shawls, the contrast between casual and elegant provided the perfect example of classic New York style.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

At the other end of the spectrum was Phillip Lim, a designer renowned for his super-chic brand of sport-luxe. Lim's collection was by no means a departure from what we have previously seen from him, but why fix a formula that isn't broken? Subtle use of block colours and aztec prints helped lend a new dimension to his signature aesthetic, whereas quilted leather and soft mohair introduced a touch of luxury to the slouchy silhouettes. One look that was especially interesting saw khaki fur patchworked into a fragmented camoflauge print that presented a more elegant take on the military trend, and elsewhere the pairing of wide-leg leather trousers with a white leather coat shouldn't have worked on paper, but was surprisingly effective. Lim may have built himself a niche aesthetic, but when he does it so well it is hard to criticise. 

CAROLINA HERRERA

The true beauty of Herrera's collection was fully-realised in its dramatic use of conventional silhouettes. Frequently referencing the glamour of the 1940s, the finest looks of this collection were slim-fitting, full-length and made a dramatic impression despite their simplicity. Even the more relaxed looks were sharpened up with a nipped-in waist that was in stark contrast to the more relaxed or the more conceptual silhouettes being explored by her contemporaries. Beginning with a series of looks based on a neutral colour palette, the prints slowly became more interesting and the colours bolder - the first introduction of colour was a striking green stripe on a striped fur coat, and before long we were seeing a stunning floor-length look consisting of a high-waisted plum skirt and cap-sleeve red velvet tee. Later looks (in particular a beautiful white silk dress specked with sapphire-blue florals) once again referenced the oriental trend; subtle ruching around the midsection was reminiscent of the classic obi belt, and was an interesting flourish on an otherwise conventional collection.