Generating controversy before it even took
place, McQueen’s S/S 1998 collection ‘Untitled’ (previously entitled ‘The
Golden Shower’ until a financial backer threatened to pull out - see the full show here) was shown in a
London bus depot and featured then-rookie models such as Jodie Kidd and Kate.
The show has since become one of his most celebrated, mainly for its balance of
commercial appeal and grandiose spectacle but also for launching the career of ‘The
Body’ herself, Gisele.
Gisele, The Golden Shower. |
The show opened in traditional fashion with a
series of beautifully-tailored trousers and suit jackets which nipped in at the
waist and curved around the chest. It was here that the McQueen established one
of the main colour themes of the collection – yellow and gold were both
prominent throughout (a reference to the ‘Golden Shower’ title), most notably
in a series of gold chain halter tops that more closely resembled body
jewellery than an actual garment. There was also experimentation with animal
print (one which McQueen had tackled in his previous collection) in the form of
a snakeskin pencil skirt made from what appeared to be PVC, a piece which was
surprisingly wearable when teamed with a black pinstripe suit jacket that
jutted open at the back.