MILAN A/W 2013 HIGHLIGHTS

It is hard to think of Italy without thinking of tradition, religion and (of course) extravagance, and Milan Fashion Week delivered in providing all three. Legendary Italian designers (think Gucci AND Ferragamo) presented collections that were chic, opulent and heavily inspired by the culture of the country. More upmarket than New York, less experimental than London and more classic than Paris, Italy is known for its fondness of excess, and the collections demonstrated this perfectly. I believe that the collections were extremely divisive - for example, some houses occasionally took excess too far by relentlessly clashing prints (Roberto Cavalli) whereas others used materials such as PVC in an unsuccessful attempt to create an experimental look (Versace). The true highlights came either when a brand stuck to a classic colour palette but experimented with cut and fabric (Prada) or followed a signature aesthetic but pushed it further than ever before to establish a strong brand identity (Dolce & Gabbana). So here are my highlights of Milan Fashion Week, a true testament to overstated glamour, relentless decadence and exquisite craftmanship. 

FENDI
The one fabric that is undoubtedly having its moment this season is fur - so far this season several designers have turned to fur to add a touch of luxury to their collections, but Fendi made the brave decision to dedicate almost an entire show to the versatile fabric. Whether it was shaggy mohair dyed canary yellow, or a more traditional mink fur streaked with pink and purple, the collection incorporated both tradition and innovation. Although there were some chic, tailored looks, it was the more outlandish looks that truly provided the highlights of the show. For example, a ruffled black fur coat was decorated with racing stripes of hot pink, putting a playful twist on an otherwise traditional look. The hair and accessories added to this youthful spirit - models walked the runway with grey fox-fur mohawks, whereas wacky white sunglasses (oddly reminiscent of Willy Wonka) look set to become the must-have accessory of this season. Showing that the worlds of luxury and whimsy can co-exist, the collection was without doubt one of the most interesting of the season.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Towards the more refined end of the fashion spectrum was Tomas Maier's A/W collection for luxury Italian house Bottega Veneta. Choosing to stick to classic designs and add interest via sculptural silhouettes and left-field colour choices (Maier even succeeded in making mustard look sexy - not an easy task!), the collection stood out for its approach on turning old-fashioned clichés on their head. For example, wool was the predominant fabric choice of the collection, yet the fabric looked light and airy as opposed to stiff and restrictive. Cocoon coats were tightly belted to give an air of elegance and a feminine silhouette, whereas plunging necklines were used elsewhere in the collection as a nod to a more seductive aesthetic. There were also references to the Art Deco trend - a series of cream dresses were decorated so painstakingly with coloured embroidery that it gave the illusion of a painted work of art, whereas sheer detailling and intricate beading presented a modern take on the 1920s flapper dress. Overall, the collection a new take on the notion of femininity - by being sexy without being overtly obvious, Maier showed that high fashion doesn't always have to be about shock value.