Showing posts with label thierry mugler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thierry mugler. Show all posts

Thursday, 17 July 2014

BIRDS OF PARADISE

It's impossible to talk about the history of fashion without heavily referencing the iconic Antwerp Six, a young design collective that changed the face of commercial fashion way back in the mid-1980s. These young pioneers were followed a few years later by one of fashion's most elusive vanguards; Martin Margiela established his 'Maison' in 1989 and went on to redefine minimalism and logo culture. His critically-acclaimed collections never featured labels; instead, every piece was hand-finished with four plain white stitches in the place the label should have been. His intimate shows were amongst the first to evoke tears from a crowd of hard-nosed fashion editors, and key pieces such as his 'Tabi' boots toed the line (quite literally) between commercial and experimental, forcing the rest of fashion to catch up. Finally, in 1995, Raf Simons was first introduced to the fashion world as a little-known designer with a new menswear brand focussed around youth culture. Back then, few could have predicted that the designer sending pale, skinny street-cast skateboarders down the runway would become one of the most powerful men in fashion, eventually being chosen as Creative Director of Christian Dior. These designers all have one thing in common; they all studied at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, a school which defines Antwerp as a city at the top of any fashion lover's bucket list. I was recently lucky enough to spend a weekend in Antwerp and, between visits to Dries van Noten's flagship store and swigs of Belgian beer, visit the city's ModeMuseum.
Thierry Mugler,'Chimere'

Saturday, 8 February 2014

FASHION x WEARABILITY

One of the most intriguing things about fashion is that it is a word with no real definition. A quick search in the Oxford English Dictionary defines fashion as “a popular or latest style of clothing, hair, decoration or behaviour” – an implication that it is something which is transient as opposed to permanent. However, this is a definition which has been skewed by endless pop-culture re-interpretations, ranging from fashion shows through to fashion blogs. Google ‘fashion blog’ and the results vary wildly – from teen girls modelling their latest Forever 21 ‘hauls’ to in-depth reviews of ‘90s couture and essays on fashion history, these blogs often have little to do with ‘fashion’s’ dictionary definition.



Monday, 18 February 2013

ICONS; THIERRY MUGLER


It's undeniable that there were spectacular looks at the recent Couture Fashion Week - Iris Van Herpen continued to innovate with her incredible sculptural collection, Gaulthier supplied the drama with his spectacular Indian bride and her four hidden children whereas Maison Martin Margiela showed a promising collection that was bursting with potential. However, none of these shows compare to the spectacle of Thierry Mugler in his heyday. Clocking in at 45 minutes, the shows are pure delight to watch from start to finish. 


Devon Aoki for Thierry Mugler Haute Couture A/W 1998


Nadja Auermann for Thierry Mugler Haute Couture A/W 1995
Far from a traditional show, Mugler was renowned for his unusual choice of models. Legendary supermodels such as Alek Wek, Devon Aoki, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss have all walked for Mugler, but the casting ranged from female bodybuilders to middle-aged women to slim, highly androgynous men. He often put the spotlight on little-known Scandinavian model Nadja Auermann, choosing her to model some of his most iconic looks (for example the incredible closing gown for his S/S 1997 look).