Menswear; Mugler S/S 2013

Although I have never before published a menswear post I reasoned that, seen as we're in the midst of Paris Menswear Fashion Week, what better time to make menswear posts a regular feature? Truth be told, there is another reason that I haven't published a menswear post in the past, and that reason is that menswear always seems to pale in comparison to womenswear. However, menswear is finally having its moment - young, open-minded menswear designers and their creativity is seeing the world of menswear being pushed forward in a bold new direction. Gone are the tired clichés that menswear constitutes dark jeans and a plain shirt; the modern man is confident in his masculinity, more willing than ever to embrace bold new colours and silhouettes.

Like the world of menswear, Mugler has also undergone quite the transformation in recent years; formerly associated with classic, elegant designs, the recent signing of Nicola Formichetti as creative director has seen the brand aim instead at a younger, edgier audience. The brand also famously collaborated with trendsetters Lady Gaga and Rick Genest, a clear indication that the collections were due to change drastically; and change they did. Although principally sticking to a classic monochrome palette, Formichetti became famous for his choice of unorthodox materials such as rubber and latex in order to inject a dose of unpredictability into classics such as the trenchcoat.

Rick Genest, the edgy new face of Mugler menswear

A twist on a classic; trenchcoats were re-designed in rubber to appeal to a younger audience

Once again, Formichetti has taken the classic Mugler formula and updated it for Spring/Summer 2013. The staples are all there; the classic monochrome tuxedo for example, but it is the details that put a provocative spin on things. For example, cut-out detailling reveals more flesh than usual for menswear - stiff black T-shirts were shown with cut-out shoulder detailling, suit jackets had extended hemlines and short-shorts reigned supreme.

Cut-out detailling added a provocative spin to a classic T-shirt; Mugler S/S 2013

Short-shorts were the look of the show; Mugler S/S 2013

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The world of fashion; is it too exclusive?

Okay so I haven't done this in the past, and I would love to receive feedback on whether you would like to see these kind of posts more regularly, but recently I have been thinking about the world of fashion and how it relates to the everyday citizen; more specifically the world of designer fashion. For the majority of the population it isn't difficult to argue that the world of high fashion serves, first and foremost, as a method of escapism. I, like many others am fascinated by Fashion Week; the spectacular runway shows, the breathtaking detail of the clothes and the unattainable beauty of the models all help to create a world that seems to exist parallel to reality. Legendary designers such as Donatella Versace, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs - they all work to create magnificent shows that are works of art in their own right, yet it is easy to forget that all that they are doing is merchandising a product. Even the most breathtaking shows serve only the same purpose as a Primark window display; they are there to make consumers want to buy the product.

The remarkably grandiose set of McQueen's S/S 2007 runway show

Florence & the Machine performing at the Chanel S/S '12 - just another marketing ploy?

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Shows; Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

For Autumn/Winter 2012, Sarah Burton has once again defied expectations and delivered an exceptional collection which retains all of the key elements of the legendary Lee McQueen's designs, yet includes subtle details that help the brand stay current and progress forward. As usual, the garments and the silhouettes used are extremely severe - dramatic nipped-in waists and full mini-skirts were the favoured blueprint - as McQueen once said, he wanted the McQueen woman to look intimidating and untouchable, describing his clothes as "armour" for the modern woman. It is with this respect that Burton adds a feminine touch; silhouettes are still hugely exaggerated, but the materials and colour palette occasionally stray into extremely romantic territory. Frothy tulle and soft lilacs are used to contrast the almost aggressive silhouettes, whereas the use of soft furs later in the collection add an element of undeniable luxury - although the garments are 100% McQueen, it's obvious that Burton has succeeded in introducing a woman's view on the classic designs.

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

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Show; Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

The selection of Rinko Kikuchi (star of Haruki Murakami adaptation, Norwegian Wood) is a clear indication that the new creative team behind Kenzo are trying to move away from the traditional image of the brand and aim to appeal to a younger audience. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection presents a tremendously broad spectrum of garments; some pieces would work perfectly as workwear, whereas other pieces have exaggerated silhouettes and bold colour palettes, making them perfect for young trend-setters. The collection also stays true to the brand's heritage and features the trademark combination of both Eastern and Western influences; for example, the traditional Japanese weave hatsare a nod to the brand's founder, Kenzo Takada.

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

Rinko Kikuchi in Kenzo S/S 2012 (i-D magazine)

One of the main themes behind the collection was the frequent use of fishnet. Fishnet leotards were shown in white, as well as in bolder colours. The inspiration of the fishnet pattern was also evident in the printed trousers and shirts - the flared red trousers in particular, as well as the weaved hats were standout pieces of the collection. The edgy aesthetic of fishnet was present throughout, and chiffon shirts in a beautiful muted green nodded towards the more sensual elements of the material. The collision of masculinity and femininity was also an element of the collection - speaking to i-D magazine, Rinko described the collection as "tomboyish but still really feminine". 

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

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Show; Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Of all the Autumn/Winter 2012 shows, one of which stood out the most was Balmain's stunning collection. The French fashion house has long since been renowned for its attention to detail, its most being famous item being the stunning trophy jacket. Luckily, the collection (the second collection by new creative director Olive Rousteing) lives up to the brand's history of gorgeous fashion. Featuring figure-hugging tube dresses, oversized suit jackets and, of course, stunningly embellished trophy jackets, the new collection saw a slight departure from the rock-n-roll aesthetic of previous collections and explored a more regal vision. As always, studs and power shoulders were a key feature to the collection, but pieces such as the quilted velvet trousers and tapestry jackets explored a realm of femininity that has seldom been seen in the previous collections.

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

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Trend; Pyjamas

In the past lingerie has had its moment; the underwear as outerwear trend became big news last year due to the emergence of Lady Gaga and her risqué outfits, which inspired many replicas on the catwalk, albeit not quite as daring. Corsets, negligés and silky underwear became the focus of many runway shows, sometimes worn with high-waisted harem trousers, other times paired with chiffon blouses. The dare to bare trend was proof that fashion is nothing if not unpredictable, and this season Stella McCartney was the leader of a new trend; pyjamas as eveningwear. McCartney's Spring/Summer 2012 collection took the traditional silk pyjama and dressed it up - with leg-lengthening heels and a sharp blazer pyjamas have never looked hotter. They're being tipped by fashion editors as the coolest trend of the season, and why not? They're low-maintenance, ridiculously comfortable and they demonstrate the nonchalant "I just threw this on" attitude that even the edgiest fashionistas try so hard to nail.

Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2012

Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2012

 More after the jump!

Show; Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

In times of economic hardship, the role of fashion is to provide escapism for those affected. Fewer fashionistas have thousands of pounds to spend on an entire collection, meaning that designers have strayed away from gimmicks and now aim to create pieces that are subdued enough to be classic, but also intricate enough to stand out from the crowd. To show this, the world of fashion has settled itself firmly in the realm of fantasy; many designers created a world of their own for their shows; whether it be the magnificent underwater paradise of Chanel, complete with life-size seahorses or the glorious carousel that set the scene for the Louis Vuitton Spring collection. Creative director Marc Jacobs opened the show by unveilling the carousel, and all of the models displaying his latest collection. It was a spectacular sight lifted straight from a fashion fairytale, rendering many of the fash-pack speechless. The show was proof that while the economy suffers, the grandeur of the fashion industry continually refuses to be stifled.

The carousel; Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

With this, the show began. The collection itself was delicate and understated, and extremely cohesive. The pastel colour scheme was occasionally offset by starched white shirts, but overall dusty pinks and lemon yellows were complimented by gorgeous powder blues, creating a vision of understated elegance. Every piece was an exercise in femininity; inspiration from the '40s and '50s was evident in the drop-waists and full skirts, designed to flatter women of all shapes and sizes. Structured jackets were accessorised with exquisite laser-cut collars and oversized buttons, whereas cut-out flowers were displayed on evening dresses, giving them a modern twist.

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

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Trend; All That Glitters

Four-day weekends, an abundance of street parties and a house covered from floor-to-ceiling in Union Jack bunting - there are many things to celebrate about the Queen's diamond jubilee, and many ways to celebrate them. One look at the catwalks for Spring/Summer 2012 indicate that it's not just the public showing their enthusiasm - in a nod to this historic event, the runways were glittering (even more so than usual) with diamonds. Some of the most decadent gowns of the season were dripping head-to-toe in crystals, whilst sequinned Peter Pan collars and intricate tiaras were the must-have accessories of the season. The craze for all things that gleam even extended into the beauty world - the models at Fendi were seen with silver foil applied to their eyelids as a glimmering alternative to eye-shadow. Whether it be metallic leather, silver snakeskin flares or the tradtional diamond-studded ballgown, there was enough variety for any woman to become a princess, whether it be one of the classic variety or one of the ultra-modern type.

Sequinned Peter Pan collar; Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2012

Metallic snakeskin flares at Diesel Black Gold Spring/Summer 2012

See more photos after the jump!