McQ by Alexander McQueen A/W 2012

If ever further proof was needed that Sarah Burton is more than capable of taking the reigns of the impressive empire that McQueen worked so hard to establish, this is it. McQ, the often-forgotten younger sibling of the Alexander McQueen brand, is finally coming into its own, producing one of the highlights of London Fashion Week. Often disregarded due to its lower prices, Burton worked incredibly hard to ensure that the McQ show was equally as impressive as the other highlights of the week, and it's fair to say that her perseverence paid off. From the elaborate set design (the stage was made to look like an enchanted forest, with hand-picked leaves stuck one-by-one to the floor) to the impeccable choice of models and the storyline behind the show, everything combined to ensure that McQ's first runway show was truly memorable. 

The finale; McQ A/W 2012

McQ A/W 2012

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Iris Van Herpen; Couture A/W 2012

Until recently, Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen was relatively unknown, but enjoyed a certain amount of recognition in fashion circles as the "Alexander McQueen for tech geeks". Designing beautiful sculpted dresses on Photoshop before working with an architect to create a 3D replica ensures that all of the gowns are truly unique, and impossible to replicate, earning the designer loyal fans such as Bjork, who chose to wear one of Van Herpen's designs for her most recent album cover, Biophilia.



Iris Van Herpen; A/W '12 Couture

Iris Van Herpen; A/W '12 Couture

However, this season the designer has become the name on every fashion editor's lips thanks to a highly original collection, complete with jaw-dropping accessories that have quickly become the top of many must-have lists. Sticking to the designer's trademark aesthetic, the garments were all ridiculously intricate, often fabricated from tough materials in a figure-hugging silhouette, forming a sort of second skin. It is in this way that the comparisons to McQueen begin to make sense - McQueen famously said that he wanted the McQueen woman to "be feared", and this collection certainly creates a powerful, and memorable image.

Iris Van Herpen; A/W '12 Couture

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Menswear Highlight #5; Acne

The final highlight of Paris' spectacular Menswear Fashion Week has to be, in my opinion, Acne for their fantastic collection which demonstrates that men can wear leather too - and not just on jackets. Although a lesser-known label (this is only the fourth Acne menswear collection ever), Acne have proven with this stellar collection that womenswear trends can convert perfectly into menswear without compromising any detail in design.

Given that the label originally specialised in denim only it comes as little surprise that the collection opened with a series of double-denim looks; baggy denim skate shorts were combined with collarless denim jackets in the same indigo wash. Although double-denim in the same shade shouldn't work, the details prevented the separates looking ridiculous when combined; a long t-shirt in a lighter navy broke up the look nicely, whereas the frayed neckline of the classic denim jacket gave it a much-needed edge.

Proof that double-denim can work; Acne S/S '13

Acne S/S '13

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Menswear Highlight #4; Balenciaga

As opposed to other, more outlandish designers, Nicholas Ghesquière chose a more subtle approach for Balenciaga's S/S 2013 collection. The primary aim of the designer appears to be removing all connotations that workwear has to be dull; the elegant separates were well-tailored yet still different enough to look young and fresh thanks to subtle details. Trousers were shown with a slightly dropped seat to create a laid-back look that came to life when teamed with an oversized trenchcoat and sharp loafers.

Balenciaga S/S 2013

Balenciaga S/S 2013

Ghesquière also proved himself to be one of the main influences behind the unlikely floral trend for S/S '13 - one of the standout pieces of the collection was a beautiful floral shirt, worn with simple separates to emphasise its appeal. The print avoids being too feminine by being oversized in comparison to some other designs, showing that florals for spring really can work.

The new floral; Balenciaga S/S 2013

Balenciaga S/S 2013

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Menswear Highlight #2; Ann DeMeulemeester

After featuring well-known French fashion house Givenchy as my first highlight, I think it only fair to discuss a lesser-known designer for this second post. Dutch designer Ann DeMeulemeester has enjoyed a long and illustrious career; having studied at Antwerp's famous Royal Academy of Fine Arts, the designer went on to create his eponymous label which soon became a hit with the fashion crowd. Renowned for his refusal to conform to the minimalist theme favoured by many fashion houses, Demeulemeester's collections are always as eccentric as they are beautiful.

Demeulemeester's latest collection certainly does not disappoint - it is ambitious, outrageous and bold, managing to stand out amongst the sea of monochrome seen in other collections. While the collection begins on a relatively tame note; flowing pyjama trousers teamed with chunky knits in muted colour palettes of burgundy and deep colour palettes, subtle details add edge to otherwise simple outfits. Thick chain necklaces and chunky silver rings provide an antidote to the decadence of the velvet coats as DeMeulemeester plays with texture to create masculine outfits with feminine touches (the floral pyjama trousers, for example, are surprisingly more wearable than they sound!)

Floral trousers - Ann DeMeulemeester S/S 2013

Clash of textures; Ann DeMeulemeester S/S 2013

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Menswear Highlight #1; Givenchy

In an attempt to make the frequency of my blogposts less sporadic, I have set myself a challenge. Given that Paris Menswear Fashion Week is in full swing, I feel it is my duty, as a male, to faithfully record the highlights of this wonderful week. However, remaining objective is extremely difficult - I think it's fair to say that every individual has their own favourite fashion houses, and I am no exception. For tonight I am allowing myself to be self-indulgent in taking the opportunity to delve into the wonderful world of  my personal highlight of the week; Givenchy, although rest assured that my remaining four highlights will be as varied as possible!

Creative director Ricardo Tisci has established a signature aesthetic for the world of Givenchy, one which has become directly associated with the iconic brand over the years. His collections remain edgy, relying on block colours and distorted prints to create beautifully sinister garments which have filtered into the mainstream. Last year also saw Tisci venture into jewellery, creating a stunning oversized septum ring; possibly one of Givenchy's most iconic moves, proven by the fact that musical trendsetters such as Grimes and Lady Gaga have been photographed with the decadent jewellery, cementing Givenchy's reputation as one of the major players in the fashion industry. With the latest collection, all of the traditional components are there; stiff fabrics are used to create a distinctive silhouette, the contrast of light and darkness is present in almost every piece of the collection and the beautiful screen prints are as spooky and effective as ever.

The infamous Givenchy septum jewellery

Dazed & Confused; Grimes in Givenchy

Givenchy's S/S 2013 collection also saw the fashion house explore the territory of androgyny, one which is rarely touched upon in menswear. Making the controversial choice of sending both men and women down the runway demonstrated that the garments are cut so magnificently that are equally flattering on both genders. Exploring the concept further, the only footwear of the season was a more masculine take on the traditional gladiator sandal - shown in both black and white, the tough rubber soles and heavy chain detailling made them stand out against the often minimalist outfits they were paired with.

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Shows; Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

For Autumn/Winter 2012, Sarah Burton has once again defied expectations and delivered an exceptional collection which retains all of the key elements of the legendary Lee McQueen's designs, yet includes subtle details that help the brand stay current and progress forward. As usual, the garments and the silhouettes used are extremely severe - dramatic nipped-in waists and full mini-skirts were the favoured blueprint - as McQueen once said, he wanted the McQueen woman to look intimidating and untouchable, describing his clothes as "armour" for the modern woman. It is with this respect that Burton adds a feminine touch; silhouettes are still hugely exaggerated, but the materials and colour palette occasionally stray into extremely romantic territory. Frothy tulle and soft lilacs are used to contrast the almost aggressive silhouettes, whereas the use of soft furs later in the collection add an element of undeniable luxury - although the garments are 100% McQueen, it's obvious that Burton has succeeded in introducing a woman's view on the classic designs.

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2012

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Show; Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

The selection of Rinko Kikuchi (star of Haruki Murakami adaptation, Norwegian Wood) is a clear indication that the new creative team behind Kenzo are trying to move away from the traditional image of the brand and aim to appeal to a younger audience. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection presents a tremendously broad spectrum of garments; some pieces would work perfectly as workwear, whereas other pieces have exaggerated silhouettes and bold colour palettes, making them perfect for young trend-setters. The collection also stays true to the brand's heritage and features the trademark combination of both Eastern and Western influences; for example, the traditional Japanese weave hatsare a nod to the brand's founder, Kenzo Takada.

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

Rinko Kikuchi in Kenzo S/S 2012 (i-D magazine)

One of the main themes behind the collection was the frequent use of fishnet. Fishnet leotards were shown in white, as well as in bolder colours. The inspiration of the fishnet pattern was also evident in the printed trousers and shirts - the flared red trousers in particular, as well as the weaved hats were standout pieces of the collection. The edgy aesthetic of fishnet was present throughout, and chiffon shirts in a beautiful muted green nodded towards the more sensual elements of the material. The collision of masculinity and femininity was also an element of the collection - speaking to i-D magazine, Rinko described the collection as "tomboyish but still really feminine". 

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2012

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Show; Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Of all the Autumn/Winter 2012 shows, one of which stood out the most was Balmain's stunning collection. The French fashion house has long since been renowned for its attention to detail, its most being famous item being the stunning trophy jacket. Luckily, the collection (the second collection by new creative director Olive Rousteing) lives up to the brand's history of gorgeous fashion. Featuring figure-hugging tube dresses, oversized suit jackets and, of course, stunningly embellished trophy jackets, the new collection saw a slight departure from the rock-n-roll aesthetic of previous collections and explored a more regal vision. As always, studs and power shoulders were a key feature to the collection, but pieces such as the quilted velvet trousers and tapestry jackets explored a realm of femininity that has seldom been seen in the previous collections.

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

Balmain Autumn/Winter 2012

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Show; Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

In times of economic hardship, the role of fashion is to provide escapism for those affected. Fewer fashionistas have thousands of pounds to spend on an entire collection, meaning that designers have strayed away from gimmicks and now aim to create pieces that are subdued enough to be classic, but also intricate enough to stand out from the crowd. To show this, the world of fashion has settled itself firmly in the realm of fantasy; many designers created a world of their own for their shows; whether it be the magnificent underwater paradise of Chanel, complete with life-size seahorses or the glorious carousel that set the scene for the Louis Vuitton Spring collection. Creative director Marc Jacobs opened the show by unveilling the carousel, and all of the models displaying his latest collection. It was a spectacular sight lifted straight from a fashion fairytale, rendering many of the fash-pack speechless. The show was proof that while the economy suffers, the grandeur of the fashion industry continually refuses to be stifled.

The carousel; Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

With this, the show began. The collection itself was delicate and understated, and extremely cohesive. The pastel colour scheme was occasionally offset by starched white shirts, but overall dusty pinks and lemon yellows were complimented by gorgeous powder blues, creating a vision of understated elegance. Every piece was an exercise in femininity; inspiration from the '40s and '50s was evident in the drop-waists and full skirts, designed to flatter women of all shapes and sizes. Structured jackets were accessorised with exquisite laser-cut collars and oversized buttons, whereas cut-out flowers were displayed on evening dresses, giving them a modern twist.

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2012

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