Monday, 2 July 2012

Menswear Highlight #1; Givenchy

In an attempt to make the frequency of my blogposts less sporadic, I have set myself a challenge. Given that Paris Menswear Fashion Week is in full swing, I feel it is my duty, as a male, to faithfully record the highlights of this wonderful week. However, remaining objective is extremely difficult - I think it's fair to say that every individual has their own favourite fashion houses, and I am no exception. For tonight I am allowing myself to be self-indulgent in taking the opportunity to delve into the wonderful world of  my personal highlight of the week; Givenchy, although rest assured that my remaining four highlights will be as varied as possible!

Creative director Ricardo Tisci has established a signature aesthetic for the world of Givenchy, one which has become directly associated with the iconic brand over the years. His collections remain edgy, relying on block colours and distorted prints to create beautifully sinister garments which have filtered into the mainstream. Last year also saw Tisci venture into jewellery, creating a stunning oversized septum ring; possibly one of Givenchy's most iconic moves, proven by the fact that musical trendsetters such as Grimes and Lady Gaga have been photographed with the decadent jewellery, cementing Givenchy's reputation as one of the major players in the fashion industry. With the latest collection, all of the traditional components are there; stiff fabrics are used to create a distinctive silhouette, the contrast of light and darkness is present in almost every piece of the collection and the beautiful screen prints are as spooky and effective as ever.

The infamous Givenchy septum jewellery

Dazed & Confused; Grimes in Givenchy

Givenchy's S/S 2013 collection also saw the fashion house explore the territory of androgyny, one which is rarely touched upon in menswear. Making the controversial choice of sending both men and women down the runway demonstrated that the garments are cut so magnificently that are equally flattering on both genders. Exploring the concept further, the only footwear of the season was a more masculine take on the traditional gladiator sandal - shown in both black and white, the tough rubber soles and heavy chain detailling made them stand out against the often minimalist outfits they were paired with.

Read/see more after the jump!

Janice Alida for Givenchy Menswear S/S 2013
Footwear; Givenchy Menswear S/S 2013
 Another theme running through the collection was the heavy use of religious motifs - distorted religious images were printed onto sleeveless silk shirts and heavily structured T-shirts, creating a unique juxtaposition between light and dark. Although more simplistic monochrome suits were shown later in the collection, it was the wonderfully decadent use of brocade and quilting that created the true highlights of the show - a heavily quilted jumper with matching shorts were a personal favourite.

The continuous blend of opulence and gothic detailling keep Givenchy completely fresh and, arguably, completely different to other fashion houses. The use of technologically advanced screen-printing with ornate designs brings a sense of contrast to the collection - Tisci must truly be commended for sticking so strongly with a signature aesthetic, yet finding ways to continually create something completely individual. Ricardo Tisci - a God amongst men.

A personal favourite; Givenchy S/S 2013

Givenchy S/S 2013

No comments:

Post a Comment