Thursday, 28 June 2012

Menswear; Mugler S/S 2013

Although I have never before published a menswear post I reasoned that, seen as we're in the midst of Paris Menswear Fashion Week, what better time to make menswear posts a regular feature? Truth be told, there is another reason that I haven't published a menswear post in the past, and that reason is that menswear always seems to pale in comparison to womenswear. However, menswear is finally having its moment - young, open-minded menswear designers and their creativity is seeing the world of menswear being pushed forward in a bold new direction. Gone are the tired clichés that menswear constitutes dark jeans and a plain shirt; the modern man is confident in his masculinity, more willing than ever to embrace bold new colours and silhouettes.

Like the world of menswear, Mugler has also undergone quite the transformation in recent years; formerly associated with classic, elegant designs, the recent signing of Nicola Formichetti as creative director has seen the brand aim instead at a younger, edgier audience. The brand also famously collaborated with trendsetters Lady Gaga and Rick Genest, a clear indication that the collections were due to change drastically; and change they did. Although principally sticking to a classic monochrome palette, Formichetti became famous for his choice of unorthodox materials such as rubber and latex in order to inject a dose of unpredictability into classics such as the trenchcoat.

Rick Genest, the edgy new face of Mugler menswear

A twist on a classic; trenchcoats were re-designed in rubber to appeal to a younger audience

Once again, Formichetti has taken the classic Mugler formula and updated it for Spring/Summer 2013. The staples are all there; the classic monochrome tuxedo for example, but it is the details that put a provocative spin on things. For example, cut-out detailling reveals more flesh than usual for menswear - stiff black T-shirts were shown with cut-out shoulder detailling, suit jackets had extended hemlines and short-shorts reigned supreme.

Cut-out detailling added a provocative spin to a classic T-shirt; Mugler S/S 2013

Short-shorts were the look of the show; Mugler S/S 2013

Read more after the jump!

It wasn't until later on in the collection that we began to see anything that resembled a true departure from the classic Mugler blueprint - taking inspiration from the colour palette of the ocean, models were sent down the runway in structured coral sport jackets and ridiculously intricate printed T-shirts, stepping away from the block colours that Mugler is renowned for. Androgyny was another key element of the collection; open-toe sandals with risqué stockings, as well as a beautifully printed coat made to look like a dress challenge gender boundaries and continue to push the world of menswear forward. In an area of fashion that has previously been somewhat stifled by tradition and the reluctance of society to remove social boundaries, it is refreshing to see young designers and established labels such as Mugler finally take a step to revolutionise the way that young men dress.

Reptile-print suit; Mugler S/S 2013
Mugler S/S 2013

1 comment:

  1. As a man and a sales agent, it is important to look good most of the time since I am talking to many clients and when I am not busy I am in the Men's wear section of a store to buy new clothes.