Like the world of menswear, Mugler has also undergone quite the transformation in recent years; formerly associated with classic, elegant designs, the recent signing of Nicola Formichetti as creative director has seen the brand aim instead at a younger, edgier audience. The brand also famously collaborated with trendsetters Lady Gaga and Rick Genest, a clear indication that the collections were due to change drastically; and change they did. Although principally sticking to a classic monochrome palette, Formichetti became famous for his choice of unorthodox materials such as rubber and latex in order to inject a dose of unpredictability into classics such as the trenchcoat.
|Rick Genest, the edgy new face of Mugler menswear|
|A twist on a classic; trenchcoats were re-designed in rubber to appeal to a younger audience|
Once again, Formichetti has taken the classic Mugler formula and updated it for Spring/Summer 2013. The staples are all there; the classic monochrome tuxedo for example, but it is the details that put a provocative spin on things. For example, cut-out detailling reveals more flesh than usual for menswear - stiff black T-shirts were shown with cut-out shoulder detailling, suit jackets had extended hemlines and short-shorts reigned supreme.
|Cut-out detailling added a provocative spin to a classic T-shirt; Mugler S/S 2013|
|Short-shorts were the look of the show; Mugler S/S 2013|
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It wasn't until later on in the collection that we began to see anything that resembled a true departure from the classic Mugler blueprint - taking inspiration from the colour palette of the ocean, models were sent down the runway in structured coral sport jackets and ridiculously intricate printed T-shirts, stepping away from the block colours that Mugler is renowned for. Androgyny was another key element of the collection; open-toe sandals with risqué stockings, as well as a beautifully printed coat made to look like a dress challenge gender boundaries and continue to push the world of menswear forward. In an area of fashion that has previously been somewhat stifled by tradition and the reluctance of society to remove social boundaries, it is refreshing to see young designers and established labels such as Mugler finally take a step to revolutionise the way that young men dress.
|Reptile-print suit; Mugler S/S 2013|
|Mugler S/S 2013|