MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHT #5

Although often more explicitly referenced in street style as opposed to the runway, a return to the 90s is a trend that refuses to die. However, towards the latter end of Issey Miyake’s Fall 2013 collection, it became clear that the designer had made it his mission to rejuvenate the shellsuits of our youth, although this time they were given a distinctly futuristic feel – a gold lamé number was chosen to end the show, whereas other versions were (albeit slightly) more subtle. The silhouette had also been updated – jackets were longer, hoods exaggerated to give an extra-terrestrial feel, whereas colours were bold enough to make a true statement.

MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHT #4

Better than anyone, Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto realises that fusing inspiration from different countries and being culturally aware is key to moving forward in the world of fashion. Thanks to the likes of Japanese pioneers Rei Kawabuko and the masters behind the new Kenzo collection, this season has seen eastern meet western in a new way and Yamamoto is one of the key players to spearhead the oriental movement.

                Sending down an array of models (both male and female) sporting oversized moustaches typical of the eccentric English gentleman, Yamamoto took a playful stance on the stereotype. As is to be expected, the collection featured British staples such as the peacoat and tartan and juxtaposed them with the loose silhouettes and flowing fabrics that can only be associated with Japanese fashion. In this collection, texture was also incredibly important – stiff suit jackets were paired with shaggy fur coats, whereas lightweight jersey was paired with heavy cable-knit in order to create a unique contrast.

MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHT #3

Although the emphasis was on sharp, monochrome tailoring, it was the few moments of traditional Italian splendour that made the Dolce & Gabbana show a true highlight of the week. Taking the decadent floral fabrics that were the focal point of the latest womenswear collection and translating them into menswear was a genius move by the stylish duo – as usual, opulence and religion were the two central themes of the collection.

Velvet smoking jackets embroidered with colourful florals were seen in many different colours, whereas one jacket saw a brocade print engineered via laser-cutting, showcasing a fresh twist on the traditional pattern. Elsewhere, Mona Lisas and old cathedrals were printed onto flowing grey jumpers, most of which were tightly-belted with high-waisted to create a clean, slick silhouette with a nod towards the brand’s Italian heritage.

MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHT #2

Ever since the appointment of Nicola Formicetti as creative director, the MUGLER brand has continued to grow in prominence and popularity. Consistently ahead of the curve and pushing fashion in new directions, this latest season has not failed to disappoint – influences range from Star Trek to Miami Vice (in the form of a fuchsia 70’s power suit), culminating in a collection that is as retro as it is futuristic.

         The collection is brighter than we have come to expect – bright cobalt blue and futuristic silver jumpers with contrasting green trim nod to a more playful aesthetic as opposed to the gothic look favoured in the past. Waistlines of trousers are higher than ever and teamed with skin-tight turtlenecks to create a variation of outfits more than vaguely reminiscent of Dr Spock.

More

MENSWEAR HIGHLIGHT #1

Following the recent inauguration of Antwerp graduate Martin Margiela into the revered couture club, the enigmatic designer is continuing his run of incredible collections with the Fall 2013 Menswear line. Beginning with a range of stylish separates and climaxing in a dramatic leather cape, the range showed continuity and established the role of the Maison as a force to be reckoned with in the menswear field.

     The aesthetic of the collection was mainly minimalist, although shaggy colourful scarves and interesting silhouettes injected a playful attitude into the highly wearable outfits. Margiela has also always been renowned for his unusual choice of casting, often choosing to street-cast his models, and this collection was no different. Choosing a variety of models of different size and age made it clear that this was designed to be a functional collection, one that could be worn by any man with style.

More

MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK HIGHLIGHTS

It’s incredibly exciting to see the presence of menswear in the fashion industry rising so rapidly – the recent Menswear Fashion Week shows were innovative and exciting in a way that is finally making the fashion world to see that menswear doesn’t need to be confined by the boundaries of society. For the first time there feels like a true movement in menswear, possibly most evident in the notable shift towards androgyny. Although there were many fantastic shows, the next few blog posts will showcase my personal highlights of the season (all illustrated of course!), drawing attention to the key pieces of the season. One thing that I love so much about menswear is that it is much less trend-focussed than the world of womenswear, meaning that my standouts of the collections feel to me almost timeless as opposed to transient. Now, let the highlights begin!